Over the past month, ASL has been in very different rooms; from the High Temperature Heat Pump Symposium in Copenhagen filled with engineers and manufacturers, to Texworld Paris, a large apparel and textile sourcing exposition, to the Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) Forum on Due Diligence in the Apparel and Footwear Sector, also in Paris.
Across all of them, one topic kept resurfacing: clean heat.
By now we all know the process of manufacturing textiles is extremely dirty. In textile production, factories rely heavily on steam and hot water, especially at Tier 2 (the dyeing and finishing stages). Most of that heat is still generated by burning coal, gas or biomass onsite. But there’s an alternative way to generate clean heat — replacing fossil fueled processes with electric alternatives powered by renewable energy.
One of the most promising clean heat technologies is the industrial heat pump: a machine that works by transferring and transforming heat, rather than generating it through combustion. Heat pumps are electric, and when powered by renewable electricity, they can not only eliminate fossil fuels, but significantly reduce emissions, improve efficiency and even cool down factories in the process — making working conditions safer for garment workers.
Transitioning textile factories to clean heat technologies like heat pumps will be an important part of decarbonising the fashion industry — but many challenges remain in scaling adoption.
Over the past month, our senior decarbonization campaigners Ruth MacGilp and Liv Simpliciano have been on the road talking to heat pump manufacturers, fashion brands and textile suppliers about the momentum that’s building, the technological potential, and the challenges that still lie ahead.
Here’s what each of them saw.
Inside the Technical Bubble: What Liv Saw in Copenhagen
“The High Temperature Heat Pump Symposium in Copenhagen, as you might expect, was heat pump heaven. The room was filled predominantly with OEMs (Original Equipment Manufacturers — essentially heat pump manufacturers!) and academics presenting solutions across chemicals, food and beverage, pulp and paper, and textiles.
ASL was one of the very few civil society actors in attendance. That alone made the experience interesting, as I was stepping into a space that wasn’t so familiar.
As a campaigner, I’m confident in the case for heat pumps. I know why they matter for the climate and for workers (reducing air pollution, improving indoor air quality, and cutting emissions from heat). However, speaking to heat pump manufacturers and sitting through academic presentations on thermodynamics, system integration, industrial processes, and temperature thresholds reminded me just how technically complex these solutions are.
What struck me most was that from a technical perspective, the message was clear: the technology is mature. High-temperature heat pump systems operating at up to 200°C are already commercially available. Units are becoming more modular and standardised. Innovation is moving quickly.
This challenged something I’ve repeatedly heard from major fashion brands: “we are not ready. Industrial heat pumps are too complex, too expensive, and that every installation must be entirely bespoke.”
There is truth in the complexity. While the technology is ready, there are still structural gaps, knowledge gaps, and financial gaps that mean textile factories are not. Our job as campaigners here is essential: we must help build public awareness and support, push for the supportive policies for electrification and the uptake of heat pumps, and ensure that the transition is shaped with, not just for, the people and sectors it affects.
Sales talk: What Ruth Saw in Paris
“At Texworld, a large apparel and textile sourcing exposition in the outskirts of Paris, I walked through the exhibition halls, conversations revolved around styles, sizes, colours and prices. Climate was rarely part of the discussion. Beyond surface-level sustainability certifications, most sales representatives weren’t able to speak to the energy sources powering their factories. That disconnect between sourcing conversations and decarbonisation is common in these mainstream industry events — there is a lot of work to be done to connect climate goals with business decisions.
To address this gap, in a panel discussion titled ‘Innovating in the Textile Industry: From Research to Impact’, I highlighted how narrowly ‘innovation’ is often framed. Billions have been invested into next-generation fibres over the past decade. Yet those materials still account for less than 1% of global supply. Meanwhile, emissions from fossil-fuelled factories continue to rise. It may not be the most dazzling sustainability marketing story, but transitioning to clean energy for thermal processes is the best shot we have at cutting carbon emissions — and toxic air pollution — from the clothes we wear.
We have to move beyond what clothing is made from and focus on the energy it’s made with.
Next, I took the green transition topic to the OECD Forum for Due Diligence in the Apparel and Footwear Sector in Paris. Throughout rich conversations focused on responsible business conduct in the fashion supply chain, climate adaptation,labour rights and financial support came up as key themes. Only an integrated approach that takes into consideration all these areas — working conditions within factories, managing the impacts of climate change to lessen the existing effects, and making sure factories have financial backing to transition to solutions — will work in the long term.
Extreme heat emerged as a key concern, with trade unions, civil society and researchers warning about the growing health risks faced by garment workers in the Global South, particularly women. Adaptation measures remain underfunded and often disconnected from brands’ climate strategies, while restrictions on freedom of association were repeatedly cited as a barrier to worker-led solutions. The message was clear: climate resilience needs to be built into supplier relationships, not treated as an emergency response.
Purchasing practices were another central theme. Suppliers explained that short-term contracts and constant price pressure make long-term investments in decarbonisation difficult. Manufacturers called for sustainability targets to be integrated into core business decisions, while unions emphasised the need for binding agreements rather than voluntary commitments. The discussions reinforced a familiar lesson: climate commitments mean little without concrete action and collaboration with rights holders.
Finally, on a panel titled ‘Financing instruments and policies for decarbonising the garment sector’, I joined climate finance, electrification and textile production experts to discuss the role brands can play in supporting suppliers’ decarbonisation. This includes investing in the most impactful and locally appropriate solutions — such as installing heat pumps powered by renewable energy, which can eliminate onsite combustion and even transform waste heat into cooling for workers. The discussion highlighted the importance of turning climate targets into practical action on the ground.“
The conversation around clean heat is widening. Heat pumps are being discussed across technical, sourcing, and policy spaces, and the question is gradually shifting from “does this work?” to “how do we scale it?” Moving beyond pilot projects will require coordinated action — from risk-sharing models and transparent data to long-term brand commitments and supportive policy frameworks.
The Path to Clean Heat Continues
Clean heat and industrial electrification are appearing in more industry conversations than even a year ago. From technical symposiums to sourcing expos and policy forums, the topic is beginning to travel across different corners of the fashion ecosystem.
Action Speaks Louder will continue bringing this issue into the rooms where sourcing strategies, climate commitments, and financial decisions are shaped. Connecting technical solutions with accountability and finance remains central to accelerating progress.
The next panel in this ongoing conversation will take place at the Innovation Forum’s Sustainable Apparel and Textiles Conference in Amsterdam (29–30 April 2026), where the focus will be on moving electrification beyond isolated pilot projects and toward broader uptake across the sector.
Join us!
Click here for more details about the session.
